New roommates: the rabbits are moving in!

Rabbits are not descended from hares, as is often assumed, but from wild rabbits, which live in complex social groups. Therefore, the cute long-eared bats are by no means suitable for keeping alone - two animals are the minimum. Read here what you need to consider when buying rabbits.

partner choice! The fertility of rabbits is legendary - so have bucks castrated in mixed groups before they reach sexual maturity (eighth to tenth week of life). In addition to multiplying, you also prevent territorial wars. However, incompatibilities can also occur in groups of females. If you decide to have two rabbits, the socialization of a female with a castrated buck is ideal. Make sure the animals are about the same age. With good care, rabbits can live to be seven to eleven years old, with smaller breeds living longer than large ones. The variety of breeds is enormous: 88 breeds in 350 colors are registered in Germany alone. By the way: The socialization of rabbits with guinea pigs is not species-appropriate and should be avoided at all costs.

Cozy enclosure

The agile rabbits have a great need for exercise - keeping them in cages is strictly forbidden. In principle, indoor and outdoor keeping as well as a mixed form is possible. The enclosure consists of two components: a protected retreat and a free range area that ideally is accessible at all times. A cage with a hygienic plastic tub and a latticed structure is suitable as a retreat. The minimum dimensions for the retreat for two rabbits are 150 by 60 centimeters with a cage height of 50 centimeters. For each additional animal, half the area is added. If two rabbits are kept permanently, the free space should ideally be 6 m² and increased by 20% for each additional rabbit. In the apartment, for example, a beautiful rabbit room can be created. Care must be taken here to that the free run in the apartment is "rabbit-proof", i.e. all objects that are dangerous for the rabbit are removed or secured. Rabbits outside are happy about a large, fenced-off space in the garden.

The perfect retreat

• One sleeping house per animal as a place to rest and hide
• Heuraufe
• food bowls
• nipple drinker
• High tub with hay and straw for digging
• Bedding made of pellets and litter, e.g. B. from paw-friendly paper flakes
• Two entrances so that the animals can avoid each other
• Indoor location: quiet room, corner of the room, without drafts and direct sunlight
• Location outside: protected from the weather and safe from predators, shaded area
• Caution: Rabbits are extremely sensitive to heat!

Make the free run varied and rabbit-safe: Shelters with raised lying areas as a lookout, structural elements such as tree grates, branches, ramps, tubes and opportunities for scratching and digging make the small animal's heart beat faster. Commercially available: Well-structured enclosures on different levels with an integrated resting place and free range.

What else belongs to the basic equipment

• One transport box per animal
• Sufficient fence parts to fence off the free range (if an entire rabbit room is not available)
• Food: hay, dry food, fresh food - read our nutrition flyer
• Litter: Pellets as a moisture-binding underlayer, straw and a possibility for digging (e.g. digging box)
• Coat brush, possibly slicker brush
• claw scissors

The rabbit does not eat - causes and remedies

A rabbit's mouth is almost constantly in motion: the munchers eat many small meals throughout the day and spend much of their time looking for the next tasty morsel. If a rabbit suddenly eats significantly less than usual or stops eating altogether, you should be alarmed: Unlike other pets, rabbits don't get a "fast day" at all. The sensitive organism can collapse within hours. Observe the rabbit's eating behavior carefully so that you notice refusal to eat or a lack of appetite right from the start.

What and how much does a rabbit eat?

Rabbits are vegetarians, more precisely: folivores. This means that mainly leaves and leafy plants form their natural food: grasses, herbs, leaves of trees. To a lesser extent, their usual diet consists of roots and possibly available vegetables. When keeping pets, certain types of fruit can also be added – in smaller quantities because of the fructose. What exactly and how much of the daily requirement a dwarf rabbit needs depends on the age, weight and activity level of the animal and is difficult to formulate as a rule of thumb. About 250 grams of feed per kilogram of body weight is a good guideline. Around 70 percent of the feed ration should consist of high-quality hay, which the animal must always have at its disposal; about 25 percent consists of green fodder (herbs, grass, some vegetables) together; the remaining 5 percent is made up of other components such as fruit and very small amounts of grain-free dry food. Which feed components a rabbit prefers is highly individual and can also vary seasonally. The better you know your rabbit, the better you'll know which herbs or vegetables he likes best - information that can be useful when it comes to whetting the animal's appetite.

What influence does digestion have on the rabbit's organism?

Since the gastrointestinal muscles in rabbits are very poorly developed, the food is transported through the digestive tract by the animal repeatedly eating and "pushing" the food that has already been eaten ahead until it is finally excreted as feces. The fact that rabbits have to eat non-stop is not exactly expressed physiologically, but the term "stomach" has become established for this special type of digestion. If the rabbit's digestive and intestinal activity slows down or even comes to a standstill because no new material moves up through the mouth and esophagus, this can quickly have dramatic consequences. Rabbits that refuse to eat are medical emergencies and need immediate veterinary attention. The most common reason rabbits stop eating is pain. Because rabbits, like many other animals, try to hide illnesses and ailments for as long as possible, by the time you notice a loss of appetite, the damage to their health can be quite advanced. The veterinarian should also use X-rays to diagnose a digestive disorder.

The dwarf rabbit does not eat - what are the causes?

If you notice that your muncher is scorning his bowl and hay rack and won't even be tempted with much-coveted treats, immediate investigation into the cause is important.

Possible causes:

• Quality of the food: If the rabbit refuses the food offered with no further signs of being unwell, check that it is all right. Is it food that the rabbit does not know or considers inedible? Can the lining be dirty, moldy or otherwise contaminated? Especially green fodder from the road or field edge can be contaminated and spoil the appetite of the animal. If in doubt, change the lining.
• Dental Problems: Rabbits' teeth are constantly growing back. If there is a lack of suitable opportunities to wear down the teeth or if they grow back incorrectly due to a misalignment, the rabbit may not be able to bite properly. If you only notice these dental problems when you refuse to eat, the animal must go to the vet immediately, who will have its teeth cut.
• Gastrointestinal problems: They are by far the most common reason why rabbits do not want to eat and usually arise as a result of poisoning or illness or a mechanical impairment such as painful constipation. Usually the rabbit shows other signs of discomfort, for example grinding teeth, fever or apathy. If the digestive system breaks down and medical measures are not initiated promptly, the rabbit's circulatory system will collapse soon afterwards - for a small animal with a rapid metabolism, this is a matter of a few hours. So don't wait for the mummler's condition to get better on its own, but take it to the veterinarian's office immediately.

How can I encourage my rabbit to eat?

If the reluctance to eat was the result of a mechanical or health limitation and was remedied by the veterinarian with appropriate medical or surgical measures, rabbits usually quickly start eating independently again. To get the rabbit interested again, offer them their favorite herbs straight from your hand. Rabbits are often tempted to eat again through patient interaction with their human. Green fodder with an intense scent can also have a stimulating effect. If there is also a problem with chewing or the jaw, you can temporarily give the food as porridge or grated. In severe cases, it is occasionally unavoidable to mechanically feed the animals with papel pap administered by injection for a few days until the metabolism gets going again. Never force-feed without a veterinarian's advice and guidance; Determining exact amounts and components of the content depends on the condition of the animal, age and weight, and it also causes considerable stress for the animal.

Find out what to do if your rabbit isn't drinking in our guide, The Rabbit Isn't Drinking Enough.

Rabbit husbandry: everything for a species-appropriate rabbit life

Rabbits have been with humans for a long time. Once used for food, most rabbits are now beloved pets, spoiled and cared for by their owners. However, they have fundamentally different requirements and also a completely different behavior than dogs or cats, for example. In order to do justice to the lovable animals, you should inform yourself in detail about their needs.

How can I keep rabbits humanely?

Rabbits are intelligent and curious animals that need stimulation and activity - a varied enclosure with hiding places, digging opportunities and rabbit-friendly toys is an absolute must. You shouldn't underestimate the animals' space requirements either: rabbits can hop forward at a leisurely pace, but they can also suddenly dash, do hooks and jump surprisingly high.

In order to be able to lead a species-appropriate rabbit life, the animals need a safe retreat in the enclosure, plenty of exercise, suitable rabbit food and employment opportunities that correspond to their nature: digging, nibbling and exercise. Trusting rabbits also feel comfortable around humans and can also develop a relationship with the people who care for them with regard to their needs. Always approach the rabbit calmly, without unnecessary rushing and noise, and initially entice it with treats until it trusts you.

Avoid touching the rabbit unnecessarily for the first few days: Only when it has lost its fear of your hands can you carefully try to touch the animal and gently stroke it if it allows it voluntarily. Please always keep in mind that rabbits are among the prey of birds of prey in nature and in most cases being picked up means stress for them. Only pick up the animals if you have to, for example for visits to the vet. To pick up a rabbit, reach under its chest and slide your other hand under its rear end.

Can I keep rabbits alone?

The simple answer is: no. Rabbits are social animals that live in large groups in the wild. Your pet rabbit needs the company of at least one of their own kind to be able to live comfortably and according to their nature. It is important that the second animal is actually a rabbit. Contrary to widespread practice, socializing with guinea pigs is not species-appropriate. While the animals can get along with each other, they are distinct species that, at best, tolerate each other, but cannot communicate with each other.

If you decide to have two or more rabbits, make sure that the animals are the same age as possible. To avoid offspring, you can choose same-sex animals. Especially with female rabbits, incompatibilities can occur more frequently when socializing. Bucks should be neutered between the ages of eight and ten weeks to avoid aggressive territorial disputes. Even in mixed groups, the male animals should be castrated before the onset of sexual maturity. A good constellation is a pair of a female and a neuter.

How should I set up the rabbit enclosure?

For species-appropriate rabbit husbandry, it must be ensured that the animal has enough space in its enclosure, which consists of a free range and a retreat. A floor area of ​​at least 6 square meters is required for species-appropriate animal husbandry of two rabbits; the area must be increased by at least 20 percent for each additional animal. The absolute (!) minimum size for a dwarf rabbit's retreat is 150 by 60 centimeters at a height of 50 centimeters, so that the animal can stretch out and also stand up. However, this is a purely theoretical rule of thumb, since rabbits can only live in a species-appropriate manner in company.

With very large rabbit breeds such as the German Giants, the enclosure must of course be considerably larger. This information refers to the pure accommodation of the rabbits: The retreat must not be the permanent place of residence for such intensively moving animals. The place of retreat includes an outlet where they can move around for several hours a day (ideally all the time). If there is the possibility of setting up such an enclosure in the garden or on the balcony, protected from predators, that is ideal.

The retreat itself consists, for example, of a stable lower tub made of plastic and the barred structure: The tub should be high enough so that the rabbit cannot throw the litter out, but also low enough so that it can look over the edge of the tub. Pad the cage softly with bedding made from pellets and generous bedding for small animals from specialist retailers. Bedding made of paper flakes and wool is particularly suitable. Rabbits have sensitive pads and should not sit on hard surfaces. They also love hay and straw for digging and snuggling up in. The enclosure is also equipped with feeding bowls, if possible made of heavy material such as ceramics, which do not tip over so easily, nipple drinkers, hay racks and a sleeping house for each animal, which also serves as a hiding place and lookout.

In a large enclosure, you can add variety with additional accessories such as tunnels or ramps. Some rabbits will get used to using a rodent toilet - it's worth a try. The location of the retreat in an enclosure in a room that is as quiet as possible is important: the rabbits must never be exposed to drafts or direct sunlight; they are extremely sensitive to heat. Ideally, you place the retreat in a corner of the room so that it is protected by a wall on two sides; This gives the residents a better overview and means they don't have to constantly look out for danger in all directions.

How can I transport rabbits?

Rabbits value the safety of their familiar surroundings. Transport usually means stress for them, but sometimes this cannot be avoided. To transport a rabbit safely—whether it's from the breeder to the new home or for the occasional vet visit—use a carrier. This will prevent the animal from getting agitated and trying to escape; in the limited space of a transport box, the rabbit feels like it is in a safe hiding place.

Rabbits in the outdoor enclosure: free range for small animals

In nature, small animals like rabbits spend the whole day exploring their surroundings and looking for food: their fast metabolism means that the animals are constantly munching away. It is quite clear that keeping them in cages indoors does not do justice to the rabbits' urge to move and their curiosity. If you have the opportunity, you should give your animals an outdoor enclosure where they have the necessary space to run around and enough environmental stimuli.

What does the ideal outdoor rabbit enclosure look like?

A rabbit outdoor enclosure essentially consists of two elements: a shelter and a rabbit-proof fence. The hut must be designed in such a way that the rabbit can go to it at will at any time. A waterproof roof is a prerequisite for providing protection in the rain. Please do not set up the hut in direct contact with the ground, but slightly higher and easily accessible for the animals via a ramp.

The outdoor enclosure itself must provide enough space to hop and stretch out: six square meters is the minimum for a pair of rabbits; for each additional animal in the enclosure, the area must be increased by at least 20%. A cage (at least 150 x 60 x 50 cm) is suitable as a retreat, and it must be open at all times. Sand and grass are suitable substrates for the enclosure, so that the animals can dig and move on soft ground - pure stone surfaces or floor tiles are not good for the sensitive paws.

Please make sure that the enclosure is not in direct sunlight all day. The rabbits must always be able to find a shady spot big enough for all the animals. You should also provide stimulating play opportunities. Rabbits like to use rustling tunnels; Ramps, seesaws and tubes made of natural materials also provide variety in the enclosure.

What do I have to consider when keeping rabbits outdoors?

If you build the outdoor enclosure for your rabbits yourself, you can already ensure the best possible enclosure safety when selecting the material and the location.

You should note that:

• Weather protection: Attach a windbreak to two sides of the outdoor enclosure on the weather side.
• Grating: The grating must be rabbit proof. Spot-welded, galvanized aviary wire is available by the meter. Make sure the mesh size is sufficient. The grid or wire must be able to withstand the gnawing instinct of the enclosure occupants and also be stable and firmly mounted so that cats, dogs or martens cannot break in from outside. Two centimeters between the grids or meshes is ideal. Regardless of the product description, so-called rabbit wire is not suitable as a permanent enclosure fencing: This material is usually too thin and, due to its mesh structure, quickly gnawed through.
• Securing upwards: If possible, you should also grate the upper area of ​​the enclosure or at least cover it with a tightly stretched poultry net to keep birds of prey away.
  Lower limit: Rabbits are industrious diggers and can undermine fences in a surprisingly short time. To prevent this, you can lay rabbit wire a few centimeters deep in the ground before setting up a self-built outdoor enclosure and sink the outer grid a little or create a border of stones along the fence to make it difficult for the animals to dig in these places.
• Safe terrain: The rabbits should be able to move around safely within the enclosure. Make sure that the animals do not come across any underground hoses or pipes when digging and that there are no plants that are dangerous for rabbits within reach.
• Safe location: For the safety of the animals, the rabbit enclosure should, if feasible, always be in your field of vision (e.g. from the window), but if possible not visible from the street, so that the presence of rabbits on the property is not immediately obvious to unauthorized persons is obvious and does not arouse the interest of passing dogs.

If the rabbits are to move into the outdoor enclosure for the first time – for example after they have bought a new rabbit or have moved house – it is important that this happens in frost-free weather, preferably in spring or summer. You should give the animals fresh grass and herbs in advance to make it easier to switch to fresh feed from the meadow.

How can I insulate the rabbit hutch?

If the rabbit house in the outdoor enclosure is not only intended as summer accommodation and the animals are to be kept outdoors all year round, adequate protection against the weather and cold must be guaranteed. Put a false floor in the rabbit hutch. Place insulating material between the floor panels, such as a styrofoam panel. Caution: The material must be inaccessible to the rabbits. Ventilation openings in the upper area of ​​the shelter ensure pleasant air conditioning. Unhindered air circulation is important to counteract the formation of condensation.

Important: The animals get used to life in the outdoor enclosure as early as the warm season, never wait until autumn or even winter.

How do rabbits react to heat in summer?

In nature, wild rabbits are active at dusk and avoid the blazing sun. Rabbits can't sweat and they can't emit much heat through their fur. The ears play an important role in regulating body temperature. Rabbits do not tolerate heat well and must always be able to escape to a shaded area of the enclosure. A sun roof or small awning provides shade; Conventional parasols are suitable as mobile shade.

Stone or wooden caves are also popular shelters from the heat. You can also keep rabbits cool on hot days with the right diet: In addition to the usual roughage, enrich the menu with fresh, moist fruit and vegetables. However, it is important to give this food in the evening, not in the morning. Since the animals and thus their digestion are sluggish when it is hot, metabolic problems can occur due to the fermentation of green fodder in the stomach. Carrots, cucumbers and broccoli are suitable vegetables after a hot day. In addition, the rabbits must have access to fresh water throughout the day. Fill the bowls more often.

Rabbits in the outdoor enclosure

An outdoor enclosure for rabbits in the garden or on the balcony must be species-appropriate and safe. In this video, rabbit expert Katharina Ebert explains what is important in an outdoor enclosure for your darlings: protection from predators, no escape, protection from heat and employment opportunities.